Of course. Lithographers don’t take that shit.
Henri Daniel Plattel, Copper-engraver in dispute with lithography, (c) 1850.
In the early days of lithography there often arose technical, stylistic and ideological disagreements between the representatives of the ancient arts of engraving and etching, and lithographers. I know some douche bag printers that still fight like this, hair-pulling and everything. Print is print. Get the fuck over it. Incidentally, that is a lithographer getting set to pummel the etcher….of course.
tight space/the sharpness of license plates
(from the project, milestones)
11in x 14in, lithograph
jason n. le
Rinsing out the gun powder tins
Got myself an offshore rigging knife
Copper engraving of George Washington, restrikes will will pulled by yours truly, time and facilities permitting.
Tying a seizing
A lesson in tying seizings
After 151 yrs, nautical charts will no longer be printed lithographically -
LITHOGRAPHY IS DEAD, SO I’M GOING SAILING
After 151 years, nautical charts will no longer be printed lithographically.
A sailor brought this to my attention, and we talked about it for a long time at the Yorktown Pub, both of use getting all riled up over it. This is when I realized that sailors love lithography and didn’t even realize it. Now with the reality of no more lithographic paper charts being printed after April 13th, the sailor erupts into a rant about how great the old charts are vs how shitty the newer (and according to the link) “increasingly popular” Print on Demand Charts, which are printed digitally. Basically the issue is the paper quality and the ability to write on the charts, making corrections as you come across them. Nautical charts will get notes written all over them, notes that occasionally need to be changed or adjusted. Sailors like the lithographic charts because the paper is durable and you can easily erase pencil notes with out messing up the ink on the chart, and as I then explained and as other lithographers know, it’s because lithography is about ink layers trapping into themselves and into the paper. And yes, you can still get tangible charts from the Print on Demand, but the digitally printed charts are on a waxier paper and erasing your pencil notes off them pulls the ink of the surface of the paper.
This then branches off into a discussion about the fate of our individual fields, traditional lithographic printing and sailing traditionally rigged ships. Both now only exist in a fine art/luxury capacity, for the most part. We don’t need traditional tall ships moving cargo these days any more than we need advertisements and documents printed by hand off of slabs of limestone. Even though both have changed dramatically from their initial purpose for existing, I’m glad they both still exist - each having their own small networks of people who get it, those who understand that although traditional litho and traditional ships are both dumb and slow (not to mention expensive and inefficient) that they have enough value in what the newer mediums lack to maintain a place in the world and to have people care enough about them to keep them going.
That being said: I’m going sailing
I’m putting my lithographic skills on hold a little longer to sail down with the Schooner Alliance to the wilds of Panama for the winter. Assuming I survive the journey down (500 miles off shore in the North Atlantic, yikes) litho will still exist when I get back in the spring… hopefully.
Litho babes and leather rollers
Loving litho, but not so much.
That’s one pretty stone #lithography
back in the Kc mo bus terminal and I just explained what relief printmaking was to an undercover that shook me down.
any lithographers know when/who made this kind of roller…never seen the leather sewn on like this. taking a crack at refurbishing. thoughts? please share your secrets? #petrichor press #diehler
You’ll need to get all the dead ink out of the leather, as much as you can. Coat it in floor stripper, then scrape the roller normally. You’ll need to do this a few times, depending on how bad of condition it is in. Once it’s down to bare leather, you can start the reconditioning process. Important to say is that once you start the reconditioning process, you have to be in a position to care for it every day until it’s put into black ink. You cannot stop part way through the process.
Start with neatsfoot oil, pour a small puddle in your hand and apply an even coat to the leather, until the entire thing is damp. You want to avoid over saturating the leather with the oil, because it’s possible for it to soak through to the felts underneath the roller. I used olive oil on my roller, which worked fine although some people avoid using it because it has the possibility of going rancid. After the coat is applied let the roller sit out in the open air (indoors) over night. The next day feel the leather, it should be slightly damp, if too dry apply another coat of neatsfoot and let sit unwrapped again. The next day you scrape out the neatsfoot, being careful to not apply an extreme amount of pressure or over scrape. You then move to the next varnish, applying an even coat, letting sit over night, then scraping out the next morning. Work all the way through the varnishes, rolling them out on the glass once they start getting tacky.
When you’ve moved through the varnishes, you can introduce it to black ink. Start with a roll up ink, and you’ll find that the roller will want to reject the ink, you’ll probably have to kind of force it into accepting the ink by pressing it into the leather using an ink knife. Once it’s totally in black ink you can start rolling up flats (or some discarded aluminum plate). Sponge the plate super loose, so that there is a lot of water still on the plate when you go to roll on it. The water helps shock the leather and raise the nap back up. Your roller will not want to ink up evenly at first, and will take lots and lots of passes to ink up. When you are down rolling up, scrape out the old water logged ink and roll up with fresh ink, then wrap up the roller, keep the roller wrapped up in plastic or foil after this point. Once it’s in black ink you don’t have to deal with it every day, but the more you scrape it and roll up flats the faster it will get happy again. The next time you open your roller, you want to scrape it, and roll it up in shop mix, then roll up flats with the shop mix. Then the next time, you will move to crayon black, then back to roll up ink… etc. What’s going to condition your roller the fastest is rotating inks when rolling up flats and lots of water.